Martine Sitbon was born in Casablanca, Morocco in 1951. Her mother was Italian and her father French. She and her family moved to Paris in 1961, when she was 10 years old.

In 1974, after studying at the Studio Bercot in Paris, Sitbon traveled extensively for 7 years, through Hong Kong, Mexico and India, but returned to France. Her early fashion education was gained in the second-hand markets of London and Paris.

She set up her own house and showed her first collection in 1985. She paraded bloomers, pastel-coloured cloth coats and monk hoods down the runway.

She was encouraged and assisted by her husband Marc Ascoli. He now designs the boutiques and showrooms of many of the leading designers in Paris.

Fond of contrasts, Sitbon is a modernist whose clothes nonetheless have a sense of history. Her long jackets and riding coats are rigorously cut, with narrow shoulders and softened waistlines. She also likes to design long skirts and trousers with a controlled flare at the lower leg.

She joined the French house of CHLOE in 1987 and in 1988 she created her first collection for CHLOE. She had continued designing for her own label also. In 1991, she left them. She joined Byblos in 1998 and designed for them for four years, before leaving in June 2002.

Martine's own collection for Fall 2002 was a blend of flea market chic, historic references, urban toughness and wispy femininity. Her pieces were distinctive but not overwhelming, mostly black with occasional gray, ivory and lavender. The collection included pretty fluid asymmetrical skirts and dresses and a silk bomber jacket.

Spring/Summer 2003

Martine Sitbon presented her Spring/Summer 2003 collection during Paris Fashion Week in October 2002 which was very well received. This is an outfit from that collection. It was a distinctly French commentary on current trends including blouson jackets, lingerie pieces, jumpsuits and micro shorts.

Fall/Winter 2003

We saw the Sitbon Fall collection during Paris Fashion Week in March 2003. An outfit is shown on the right.

Her theme was punk-meets-scifi and plaid, lurex, zippers, off-kilter colour combinations and collaged pieces of oddly matched fabric, were worked into the show.

Spring/Summer 2004

During Paris Fashion Week in October 2003, Martine Sitbon showed her collection for next Spring. An outfit from this collection is shown on the left.

She did a spontaneous modern collection out of couture elements like bows and flowers. She used parchute silk and raided colours from a makeup counter, powdery blush, baby blue and other pastels. Crisp white frockcoats, backless waistcoats and wide cream trousers looked smart, imaginative and sexy.

Fall/Winter 2004 ready-to-wear

Martine Sitbon presented her Fall collection in Paris during Fashion Week of March 2004. An outfit from the show is pictured on the right.

Martine has moved away from her earlier stark severe look, towards dreamy romanticism and is showing an original way with colour nowadays. Creative draping, layers of pearl pink or creamy white chiffon, undulating hems, fluttery sleeves and unusual decoration. Jackets and coats were reversed so that the linings showed the lingerie look.

Financial Problems

In August 2004 it was announced that Martine Sitbon was facing financial difficulties and may not present a Spring/Summer 2005 collection. Her husband Marc Ascoli told Women's Wear Daily that they were trying to find an investor. Sitbon generates a wholesale volume of about 2 million pounds a year but the Korean firm Shamzie which is Sitbon's largest shareholder, suffered losses last year and that was the reason for the current situation. Let's hope they find a way out, so she can continue showing her collections.

2004