Website: www.jilsander.de
Her real name is Heidemarie Jiline Sander, and she was born in Wesselburen, Germany in 1943. Her father was in the German army fighting on the Russian front, her mother had fled from the bombing in Hamburg.
She studied textile design at Krefeld School of Textiles (class of 1963) in Germany, before spending a year as an exchange student at the University of Los Angeles, California in 1963-4.
She then became a journalist for McCalls magazine in the US, and German women's magazines before turning to freelance clothing design.
In 1968, she opened her own boutique in Hamburg, Germany, showing her first collection in 1974. She also has boutiques in Paris, London, New York and many other major cities. In 1989, her company went on the Stock exchange as a public limited company.
1999 The company Jil Sander was purchased by Prada. Jil herself was removed from the company she had founded, and is under contract not to have anything to do with fashion in any way, till 2003.
Sander Style
She perceived a need for understated clothes with a sense of quiet inner self-confidence, but which would provide the wearer with the ultimate in fit, quality and modernity.
Her minimalist style gained popularity on the international market. She combined the simplicity of male garments with a feminine sense of luxurious fabrics. Her clothes were a byword for a ultra-modern, sensuality that was technical as well as beautiful.
Jil Sander also experimented with new materials such as silver-laminated linen, which she felt to be much more subtle than straightforward silver.
Milan Vukmirovic, formerly of Colette boutique in Paris, and a very brief stint with Gucci, was appointed chief designer. He has not been very successful in continuing Jil Sander's vision and the garments are disappointing.
The design team headed by Vukmirovic emphasised commercially viable sportswear. The Spring/Summer 2003 collection shown in Milan in September 2002 was only sporty clothing, such as that shown here.
Vukmirovic showed the Sander house Fall collection during Milan Fashion Week in March 2003. An outfit from the show is shown on the right. It was not a very inspiring show.
He showed kilts in tiers of pleats and asymmetric skirts or extended into dresses. One white shirt had embroidered wings on the back. He also showed T-shirts with "wild heart" or "sweet angel" on them.
Prada had to inject a considerable amount of cash in early 2003 to keep Jil Sander going, amid rumours of mounting losses. There was a lot of speculation about selling the house and Jil Sander returning to the house she founded. There was some talk of her meeting with executives of Hugo Boss who might buy her company from Prada.
Jil Sander returns
At the end of May 2003, Jil came back as Designer for the house she had founded, with full control. She was also made a member of Prada board of Directors. It had become clear to the whole world, that money alone did not ensure success in the fashion world. Everyone recognized that the soul of a brand resides in one artistic individual.
Spring/Summer 2004
Jil Sander returned with her ready-to-wear line for this season, which was shown during the Milan Fashion Week in October 2003. One dress from the show is on the left.
Her opening look, a delicate white cotton full-skirted dress with a tracery of sepia flowers printed on the bodice, indicated that Jil was back.
She designs clothes for an intelligent woman, creating similicities difficult to find like a great white shirt, wonderful sweaters, and a well-cut pantsuit.
Her legendary insistence onexperimental fabrics and techniques is still very much apparent such as paint-rollered effects on dresses, some with seams inverted and pressed flat.
It was a very positive and serene collection.
Fall/Winter 2004 ready-to-wear
Jil Sander is now well and truly back at the helm of her company and presented her Fall collection in Milan during Fashion Week in February 2004. One of her dresses is shown here on the right, a shocking pink creation rather unusual for the designer known for her pure white ensembles. In fact most of her collection was clean white confident, contemporary pretty designs as well as coolly cut streetwear. She kept to a lady-like agenda, showing amazingly cut pea jackets, lean pants, tweed princess coats and A-line skirts. The effect was simple and sophisticated.
Spring/Summer 2005
During Milan Fashion Week in September 2004, Jil Sander presented her Spring collection. A pretty outfit from the collection is shown on the left.
This is the second collection since she came back from the cold and took over her company again, and this time the strict severity has melted to femininity. A new womanly lightness is now in full flower with fresh colours of sky and summer gardens. Tiny tucks shape cotton dresses and a sense of ease filled the runway with models wearing wedge-heel sandals. Sander worked masterfully with ikat prints on cotton shirts and skirts.
Jil leaves again
In November 2004, it was announced that Jil Sander is again leaving her company because of differences with Prada. This time it appears to be permanent.
Autumn/Winter 2005
The design team at the house of Jil Sander presented their first collection without the founder. This Autumn/Winter collection during Milan Fashion Week in February 2005. It was difficult to know which were her designs, since she has left so recently. The clothes were wearable, and adapted to current trends, with the certain minimal sharpness that she was so famous for. It will be interesting to see whether the clothes continue to be made in her inimitable style in future collections.
New Designer
In May 2005, the house announced that Raf Simons, shown here on the left, would be the new creative director from July 1st 2005, for womens and menswear collections. Born in 1968 in Neerpelt, Belgium, Raf Simons has been principally known for his menswear which started in 1995. He is at present based in Antwerp. His first collection for Jil Sander will be for Autumn/Winter 2006 to be unveiled in Milan in February 2006.
You can read all about him from his website www.rafsimons.com
Spring/Summer 2006
Milan Fashion Week
The team at Jil Sander presented her Spring/Summer 2006 collection during Milan Fashion Week in September 2005. An elegant white satin dress with an empire waist, and one strap over the shoulder, from the collection is shown on the right.
The house is still waiting for the collection next season, of Belgian Raf Simons. Wide well-cut shorts and low belted skirts made a good start for summer. Crisp cotton dresses were attractive, but the spark of a great designer has gone, as Jil herself is no longer there.
Jil Sander Woman