Ralph Rucci





Website: www.chadoralphrucci.net

Ralph Rucci was born in 1957 in Philadelphia. He was a student of Philosophy and Literature at Temple University. He then moved to New York in the 1970's and studied fashion design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.

He has been designing in New York since 1982 and now has his showroom on Seventh Avenue. The media has never really bothered to attend any of his shows in the last 20 years, and he is a mystery to them. But to those who do go, he has long been the master of quiet seduction.

Since 1994, he has called his Ready-to-Wear collections CHADO, named after a Japanese tea ceremony which creates an overall sense of grace and elegance.

It is rare to find a fashion designer who is also a sculptor and a decorator, but Rucci has these skills, using ivory satin or black velvet to make jackets that stand away from the body, which remind of classic Balenciaga.

In 2001 he was invited to join the Haute Couture collections in Paris, being the first American to have this honour since Mainbocher more than 50 years ago. Some Americans who work for other houses do show couture collections, but not in their own name.

In July 2002 he unveiled his first ever genuinely couture collection. The beauty of his collection was in the details. Each piece had a smooth quality, a subtlety and a softness which was implicit in the fabrics such as double-faced hand-stitched cashmere, velvet, silk moiré and sable.

He loves the stately presence of sweeping stoles and cloaks and vast quantities of fabric in his evening gowns.

Paris Haute Couture - Spring 2003

Ralph Rucci was the only American designer to show a Haute Couture collection in January 2003. The pristine cleanliness of his cuts, and his obsession with Japanese simplicity, made his clothes just the thing for modern management women who want discretion and presence.

One of his funnel necked dresses is shown on the right.





Paris Haute Couture - Fall/Winter 2003

Last year, Rucci was the first American since Mainbocher, to be invited to present his collection at the Paris Haute Couture. His second collection in July 2003, was just as elegant and exciting. He has been increasingly working with famed embroidery houses of Lesage, Le Marie, and Jean Pierre Ollier. An example of his evening wear is shown on the left, one of his stunning hand-painted silk skirts under bodices of sheer black chiffon.

His daywear including swinging capes with buttons down the side and embroidered panels. He excels in fine leather pieces, with soft touches of min-trimmed collars and delicate bell sleeves. The result is a fresh new take on highly wearable couture clothes.




Spring/Summer 2004

During New York Fashion Week in September 2003, Ralph Rucci's showed his Chado ready-to-wear collection for next Spring. An outfit from the show is shown on the right.

This beautifully crafted line, sculpted in firm fabrics from grosgrain to double-faced wool, created clothes that looked deceptively simple and emphasized the couture quality of Rucci's work.

Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2004

Rucci's haute couture collection shown in January 2004 in Paris, was beautifully sculpted and eminently wearable. Stiff duchess satin, fishtails of tulle and wooden beading showed attention to detail exploring the traditional codes of haute couture. Sleeveless evening dresses were embroidered with single strands of ostrich feathers and jackets rippled with delicate perforations. It was a grand but restrained finale to couture week.


Fall/Winter 2004


Rucci's ready-to-wear Fall collection was shown during New York Fashion Week in February 2004. He presented slim pants, close-fitting skirts and easy jersey dresses using cashmere, wool and silks in muited colours like grey, taupe, dark green and black. He put lambskin inserts in wool-crepe dresses without creating bumps and a waist-length clutch jackete covered with guinea hen feathers.


Haute Couture 2004

Ralph Rucci was the first to show in Paris on July 5th, 2004 and as the only American in Haute Couture week, he had a high standard to maintain. A picture from his collection is shown on the left.

His designs are not as flamboyant as Dior and Gaultier are, but his detailing and perfection cannot be equalled. His show included a coat with 488 buttons, a dress made of 165 strips of chiffon, and robes with guinea fowl feather trains. His hand embroidery was made by a team of 20 full time seamstresses.


Spring/Summer 2005


During New York Fashion Week in September 2004, Ralph Rucci presented his Chado Spring collection. A dress from the show is pictured on the right.

His ready-to-wear collection had all the elegance and style of Paris couture, but with an American inflection beautifully appropriate in New York. Puffs of chiffon, paillettes and feathers decorated hemlines of summer dresses, varied embroideries gave body to the exquisite fabrics.



Fall/Winter 2005


The Chado Ralph Rucci Fall/Winter collection was shown during New York Fashion Week in February 2005. The workmanship of his clothes, particularly an aubergine alligator coat with insets, was breathtaking. All his clothes are made with precision and highlights included a black crepe dreess, a suede back golden sable coat, worn open and belted and a wrap beaded after a Kline Art Deco painting. His dresses are perfect for the Oscar season.

Spring/Summer 2006
New York

Ralph Rucci presented his Chado Spring/Summer 2006 collection during New York Fashion Week in September 2005. An elegant red dresst from the collection is shown on the right.

Ralph maintains his signature silhouette, adding nuances like an alligator bodice, a pieced dress or a voluminous coat. He played with leather and printed organza this season. using what he calls "scratch embroidery" of thinnest leather pieces sewn on tulle. White silk jersey blouses were worn with silk shantung skirts, with asymmetrical streamers at the side. Following his ready-to-wear collection, Rucci presented a 26 piece haute couture collection which was supremely elegant.





2005