1902-1955
Marcel Rochas was born in Paris, France in 1902. He opened his house in 1924. He was encouraged by Jean Cocteau, Christian Berard and Paul POIRET.
He was a strong, influential designer with an international reputation, who anticipated many of the most prominent fashion trends of the 20th century.
During the 30's, Rochas started to create black and white dresses that featured a white collar. His creative innovations often featured a strong shoulder line.
In 1933, his collection featured wide shoulders, a style generally attributed to SCHIAPARELLI.
In 1935 the great fashion illustrator Cecil Beaton drew two Rochas gowns for Vogue. They are shown here on the left and right.
They show the typical thirties hem length at around mid calf, and the slinky silhouette so typical of the decade. He tried to show in his sketches,
the luxurious fabrics and exquisite design which the house of Rochas was known for.
Marcel favoured hourglass silhouettes and foreshadowed the new look of Dior, by showing longer skirts in 1941. He showed bustiers in 1943.
As the 20th century progressed, corsets got less restrictive. However in the 1940's a very small waist was again "de rigeur" to wear the fashions such as Dior's New Look. In 1945 Marcel Rochas introduced a long strapless brassierre/girdle which enclosed the hips. It was a foundation garment that was to train figures for a decade. It was in Europe and the United States, called the "Waspie". This was based on the very small waist a Wasp has. In France where it was introduced, this name was not used, it was called a "guepiere". The "Waspie" is shown on the left.
In the 50's, he transposed casual trousers into the context of women's suiting - another Rochas novelty.
Rochas often worked with flower-patterned fabrics. He promoted the three-quarter-length coat and was one of the first designers to feature pockets in skirts. Rochas also specialized in separates and accessories, which he sold from a boutique in his salon.
Marcel Rochas died in 1955 at the early age of 53.
However his house has continued to create clothing, perfumes and accessories.
From 1955, Rochas' wife Helene tried to take over the designing, but was not able to continue for long. Various designers have worked for the house.
In 1987 the German hair-care and cosmetics giant Wella bought the house of Rochas.
Peter O'Brien joined the house of Rochas in 1989 and since then has been the chief designer.
He studied at Central St. Martin's, London and Parsons, New York before working with Marc Bohan at Dior, Givenchy and Chloe.
O'Brien presented the Rochas Spring/Summer 2003 ready-to-wear collection during Paris Fashion Week in October 2002. This is a dress from that collection.
Olivier Theyskins
In November 2002, it has been announced that Peter O'Brien is leaving the house of Rochas, and is being replaced by Belgian designer Olivier Theyskins.
Theyskins is 25 years old and you can click on Theyskins to read more about him.
Fall/Winter 2003
Olivier Theyskins, the talented young Belgian designer, presented the Fall collection for the house of Rochas during Paris Fashion Week in March 2003.
A dress from the Fall collection is shown on the left. He bowled over his audience with a show that was magnificent. He redefined the romance of the suit, the cocktail dress and the grand evening gown in exquisite couture-grade fabrics, making them relevant for a new generation.
Black Chantilly lace, pink and white taffeta, satin and tulle were used, satin dresses with bell skirts and ingenious variations were shown. Theyskins ushered in a whole concept of feminine elegance and sophistication.
Spring/Summer 2004
During Paris Fashion Week in October 2003, Olivier Theyskins showed his Rochas collection for next Spring. A dress from this collection is shown on the right.
His aim was to dress "a goddess from another world" and this vision translated into black lace covering silver-grey suits and high-waisted skirts, then corsetry or structured strapless dresses. He worked with decorative edgings and frills, and oval lace insets. He also showed several voluminous tulle wonders which will walk beautifully on red carpets next spring.
Fall/Winter 2004 ready-to-wear
Olivier Theyskens presented his Rochas Fall collection in Paris during Fashion Week in March 2004. A fragile mini-dress from the show, with a butterfly motif, fastened by "hinge" toggles is shown on the left. Rochas has focused on a sweet dark romance since Theyskins became their designer. He is using ideas like elbow gloves, metallic hued shoes and a silhouette of short jacket and rounded skirt. A peek of corsetry appeared. He is moving slowly and carefully as if handling a fragile butterfly.
Spring/Summer 2005
During Paris Fashion Week in October 2004, Olivier Theyskins showed his Rochas collection for next Spring. A dress from this collection is shown on the right.
This collection has some delightful decoration, absorbed into the fabric, showing a suit deliberately puckered, softly subtle drapes on a black dress and a lattice of Xs worked down the spine. Lingerie references were charming and original. Theyskins work gives Rochas a delicate touch.
Autumn/Winter 2005
Olivier Theyskins Autumn/Winter collection for the house of Rochas was shown during Paris Fashion Week in March 2005.
One of the beautiful evening dresses from the show is pictured on the left.
Olivier had dug into Rochas archives for this collection, using true romance to create an Edwardian silhouette in luxury fabrics like cream wool, mohair, lace or silk. He now cuts on the bias, leading to a new softness in skirt trains and fluttering ruffles that run along the length of gowns. He has exquisite technique and restraint that appeal to his elegant sophisticated clientele.
He also used fur trim so popular this season, to great advantage.
Spring/Summer 2006
Paris Fashion Week
Olivier Theyskins presented his Rochas Spring/Summer 2006 collection during Paris Fashion Week in October 2005. A long crepe skirt flared at the hem, worn with a matching long-sleeved jacket with a V-neck, from the collection is shown on the right.
For the first time Olivier showed pants in his collection. They were slightly crumpled fabric, and he says he felt it was time to include them. The dresses had an Edwardian silhouette to them, inspired by Monet's paintings and long skirts worn by the sculptor Camille Claudel the lover and muse of Auguste Rodin. Water lily embroideries embellished gowns, beautiful deep blue chiffon gowns and the streaming flare of a pleated train, were some of his creations. The show stoppers were capelet sleeved ruffled lace gowns.
2005
Rochas Femme