1900-1972
Website: www.normannorell.com
Norman Norell was born as Norman David Levinson in Noblesville, Indiana, USA in 1900. His father had a haberdashery. From early boyhood, he had an ambition to be an artist. He spent a brief period at military school during World War I. In 1918, he attended Parsons School of Design in New York, followed by fashion design at the Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, New York from 1920 to 1922.
In 1922, he joined the New York studio of Paramount Pictures where he designed clothes for Gloria Swanson and other stars of silent movies. Two of his films were "The Sainted Devil" with Rudolph Valentino and "Zaza" with Gloria Swanson. Later on his clothes could be seen in the films "That Touch of Mink" and "The Wheeler Dealers".
He then worked as a costume designer on Broadway, making the costumes for the Ziefeld Follies and the Cotton Club, as well as for the Brooks Costume Company and for wholesale dress manufacturer Charles Armour. In 1928, he was hired by Hattie CARNEGIE and remained with her until 1941.
Norell got his first Coty Fashion Award in 1943. He also started teaching at the Parsons School of design in New York, which he continued doing right up to 1972. Right till the end of his life, he made unpublicized daily visits to assist fashion design students at Parsons. In 1956 Parsons awarded him their Medal for Distinguished Achievement.
Anthony Traina then invited him to form Traina-Norell, with Traina looking after the business side and Norell as the fashion designer. By 1944, Norell had launched chemise dresses, evening dresses, fur coats, sequined evening sheaths, fur slacks and empire-line dresses. America was cut off from Paris fashions in the War years, and Norell came to prominence with his all-American look.
In 1956, he was inducted into the Coty Hall of Fame, reserved for only the very talented American designers. In all he was awarded 5 Coty awards, in 1943, 1951, 1956, 1958 and 1966.
In 1960, when Traina retired, he opened his own company using only the NORELL name. His first collection featured culottes for day and evening wear, harem pants and décolleté evening dresses.
In the 60's, Norell was acclaimed for his well-proportioned suits and clean, precisely tailored silhouettes. He used fabric flamboyantly, trimming garments in fur and feathers.
He is considered to be the best designer of the "New York" style.
He is considered to be one of the foremost US designers, on a par with the French couturiers. Norell is best remembered for his sequin-covered sheath dresses like this one worn by Suzy Parker in 1952.
Simple, well-made clothes that would last for many years and still be fashionable, were the hallmark of Norman Norell. Regular trips to Paris exposed him to the standards of couture that made French clothes so good. He had the unique ability to translate couture into American ready-to-wear. He inspected each garment individually, carefully, in the tradition of a couturier and was just as demanding in proper fabrication and finish. His clothes lasted and their classicism made them timeless.
Norell was a founder and president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) the governing body of the American fashion industry.
Norman Norell died in New York, in October 1972.
It was just before the Metropolitan Museum of New York was to give a retrospective exhibition of his work. Gustave Tassell designed for the house of Norell from 1972 to 1976.
In the year 2000, the city of New York decided to honour American fashion designers by placing bronze plaques along 7th Avenue, the great street of fashion in New York. This has been called the "FASHION WALK OF FAME." Norman Norell was one of those honoured, and here is a picture of his plaque.
The house of Norman Norell has continued and holds fashion shows. Creative Director is Patrick Michael Hughes who is also a lecturer in costume history in the department of fashion design at Parsons School of Design, in New York.
The collection for Spring/Summer 2005 was shown at Bergdorf Goodman in September 2004.
click below:
Swords into ploughshares by Richard Martin
Metropolitan Museum Exhibit of Norell's fashion.
2004
Norell (W)