Founder: Thomas Burberry 1835-1926
Website: www.burberry.com
Thomas Burberry was born in Dorking Surrey, England in 1835. He trained as an apprentice to a draper. In 1856, he opened his own drapery business, called T. Burberry and Sons, in Basingstoke, Hampshire.
In collaboration with the owner of a cotton mill, Burberry produced a waterproof coat based on the close weave and loose style of an agricultural smock. The cotton cloth, called Gabardine, was proofed in the yarn before weaving, then closely woven and proofed again.
In 1891, Burberry established a wholesale business in London. He specialized in making gabardine clothes for active leisure pursuits and for the sports field. Most popular was the smock-like "Walking Burberry" cut on straight, easy-fitting lines with a fly-front fastening and Raglan sleeves.
In 1902, Burberry established "Gabardine" as a trademark and in 1909, the "Burberry" was registered as a trademark for the company's coats.
During World War I Burberry designed coats for the British Royal Flying Corps (later the RAF). The military style model of the Burberry became the Trenchcoat of the First World War. It has a deep back yoke, epaulets, buckled cuff straps, a button-down storm flap on one shoulder and storm pockets.
After the war, the Trenchcoat was absorbed into civilian life. Known as a "Burberry" it has been copied worldwide.
In the 1920's Burberry introduced it's famous checked fabric, which has been an instantly recognizable trademark ever since. In the 60's Burberry made a stab at the fashion scene, and the famous check was seen on umbrellas, luggage and scarves. Their plaid is now one of the most recognized in the world. Here on the left supermodel Kate Moss is wearing a Burberry outfit.
In the 1980's, the company started to revitalize its brands and trademarks. This was accompanied by retail expansion, opening stores in New York and other major cities. All major stars and celebrities have worn Burberry trench coats. Audrey Hepburn wore one in "Breakfast in Tiffany's".
Rose Marie Bravo
An American store executive, Rose Marie Bravo, gave up her $ 1 million-a-year job at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, to become CEO of Burberry in 1997. She turned a dowdy and dormant raincoat company into a worldwide fad. Burberry's checked bikinis, (especially the one on Kate Moss) shirts, bags, crusher hats and bandannas sell so well that in 2001 Bravo announced the highest profits in Burberry's 100 year history. In spite of the very difficult financial year, Burberry posted an 18 % rise in annual revenue in 2002 and Rose was rewarded with a $ 6 million dollar pay packet.
Christopher Bailey
Being at heart British, Christopher Bailey wanted to work with a designer in the U.K. His opportunity came when Rose Marie Bravo, the CEO of Burberry, offered him the design job. He joined Burberry in June 2001. Read all about him by clicking on Christopher Bailey
His runway debut for Burberry was a relaxed presentation in a Milan palazzo that had playfulness as well as a return to Burberry's British roots. He has built on that concept while revamping the influences with contemporary silhouettes, fabrics and finishes.
Bailey has also overseen the start-up of Burberry's immense 57th Street New York flagship store, opened in Fall 2002. This will enable Burberry and Bailey to move into the US market with a bang.
Bailey presented his Spring/Summer Prorsum 2003 collection for Burberry in Milan in September 2002. Again in March 2003, he presented his Fall 2003 collection.
He picked up the military/sport theme and managed to make something really different, matching cashmere jog pants with mesh jackets. He used the new Burberry check scaled up in soft green, on a shrunken jacket that looked like an old friend.
New Burberry line
In August 2003 Burberry introduced a new line which is called THOMAS BURBERRY. It is intended for the younger, hippier customer and will have a style focus comprising of casual functional sportswear. It will include plenty of denim, woven wool and canvas. It will have an 1885 stamp, the year the founder of the company Thomas Burberry was born.
Spring/Summer 2004
During Milan Fashion Week in September 2003, Burberry Prorsum showed their collection for next Spring. An outfit from the show is shown on the left.
Christopher Baily cleverly replayed signature pieces to come up with a fresh new look. The colour scheme ran from white to black with pastels in between. There was an easy-going mood with billowing gauzy cotton vests tucked into footballer-style baggy shorts or full cotton skirts. An ink-blot print splattered on everything from stiff coats to wrap-around summer dresses, tied at the side.
Kate Moss has been associated with Burberry for years, and she looked wonderful modeling their clothes at this show, one year after the birth of her daughter. For the ad campaign this season, Kate is joined by sons and daughters of rock, Mick Jagger's eldest son James, Keith Richard's daughter Theodora and Elizabeth Jagger's boyfriend Alex Dellal. The campaign has been photographed by fashion photographer Mario Testino.
Fall/Winter 2004
The Burberry Winter 2004 collection in Milan was presented by Christopher Bailey during Fashion Week in February 2004 which was very well received. His look was very English, with a hint of 1970s in the soft pants, stripe-front sweaters and narrow cut of the trench coats. He used shiny leather as shown here on the right, leather buttons and laminated silk with a glow. His girlish dresses had a lot of charm.
New Rome store
Following the success of the Burberry Milan boutique which opened in September 2003, they are opening a second Italian store in Rome on the via Condotti, and Rose Marie Bravo confirmed that they have plans for similar stores in Moscow, Tokyo, Shanghai and Houston within the year. There was some media attention "banning Burberry hooligans" in Britain, but Rose Marie Bravo, the chief executive who has taken Burberry from scarves and trench coats to a hot brand, says that she pretty much ignores all that.
Spring/Summer 2005
During Milan Fashion Week in September 2004, Christopher Bailey presented his Burberry Spring collection. An outfit from the collection is shown on the left comprising a pretty pastel blue coat over a printed summer dress.
He contrasted rustic and urban with linen capes over shiny metallic party dresses, and patent leather for trenchcoats. His gleaming fabrics gave an image of modern England, while his focus on craftsmanship and floral patterns showed the rustic side.
Autumn/Winter 2005
Christopher Bailey presented his Burberry Autumn/Winter collection during Milan Fashion Week in February 2005. Being English, he created a collection of British classics like empire-line tiered dresses worn with scarves and vintage cardigans. Lace-upknee highboots and other accessories like leather driving gloves, flat caps and soft slouchy bags added to the English look. He used a mix of fabrics, tweed, velvet, sheepskin and soft flowing dresses. Brass military buttons and Scottish Highland plaids were also used, to make a charming collection.
Spring/Summer 2006
Milan Fashion Week
Christopher Bailey presented the Burberry Spring/Summer 2006 collection during Milan Fashion Week in September 2005. A camel coloured trench coat from the collection is shown on the left.
Christopher used big gilded buttons on gold lame coats, using as inspiration Princess Margaret the younger sister of Queen Elizabeth. She was a fashion icon in the fifties and sixties and Bailey caught the moment beautifully with short tailored coats and bow-at-the-waist dresses worn at that time. He also introduced little extra touches such as woolly berets, to give a modern edge to his royal parade.
Rose Marie Bravo leaving Burberry
In September 2005, Rose Marie Bravo announced that when her contract as CEO with Burberry expires in July 2006, she would not be renewing it. She is credited with increasing the profitability of the house to a tremendous extent. She will hold the newly created position of Vice Chairman at Burberry after July 2006, where she would be required only to spend a few days a month on Burberry work. Replacing her as CEO, and with a more hands-on role would be 45 year old Angela Ahrendts, who is at present with Liz Claiborne Inc as Vice President.
Losses at Burberry
For the period April to September 2005, Burberry profits fell by 1.6 % to 78 million pounds. Their turnover actually increased by 2.1 % or 355 million pounds, but it seems that costs have increased.
Burberry's is owned by Great Universal Stores, who CEO Brian Blake, resigned last week for "family reasons". There have been quite a few changes at Burberry recently.
Stacey Cartwright, Chief Financial Officer, was "cautiously optimistic" when interviewed. She saw "vast potential" in the United States and Japan.
Burberry is opening a fourth international store in December 2005 in Dubai, following earlier openings in Moscow, Sao Paolo, Brazil and Warsaw, Poland.
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Burberry for Men