Norman Hartnell was born in London, England, in 1901. He was studying at Cambridge University and was designing the costumes for the dramatic performances. They got a good review and a journalist convinced him that his future lay in designing clothes. He left Cambridge without a degree and took a job with a London dressmaker called Madame Desiree.
He was only there 3 months, but the experience convinced him that he had joined the right field. He briefly worked for Lucile and a house called Esther, and in 1923 started a salon under his own name
His early collections, comprised tailored day ensembles and elegant evening clothes. His ceremonial clothing propelled him to fame. His first wedding dress was described in the press as "the 8th wonder of the world" and wore by the bride of Lord Weymouth.
In 1927 he made the wedding dress of Barbara Cartland (later famous authoress and step-grandmother of Diana, Princess of Wales).
The turning point in his career came when he designed the brides and bridesmaids dresses for the wedding of the Duke of Gloucester, 3rd son of King George V. Two of the bridesmaids were Princess Elizabeth (later Queen) and Princess Margaret.
In 1938 he was appointed dressmaker to the British Royal Family and designed gowns for overseas visits, especially for Queen Elizabeth (now the Queen Mother). The present Queen Elizabeth had her wedding gown and coronation gown (in 1953) made by Hartnell, as well as numerous of her other clothes, both casual and formal. On the left is a picture of the Queen choosing from Hartnell's sketches.
In addition to his royal work, he designed for the theatre - for Noel Coward productions, Mistinguett and Marlene Dietrich.
He was also a prolific designer of film costumes. From 1930 until 1963, Hartnell designed costumes for 21 films, including "Suddenly Last Summer" in 1960.
The picture on the left is of Anna Neagle in "Maytime in Mayfair" which was a Vogue cover.
During the war, he was responsible for the uniforms of the British Red Cross, the Women's Royal Army Corp and the Women's Police Force. During World War II he adhered to the regulations for economic use of fabric, lack of buttons, embroidery, etc., even for the Queen and hand painted some of her dresses himself.
He was knighted Sir Norman Hartnell in 1977 (the first couturier to be so honoured).
The Hartnell style
Hartnell gained a reputation for imaginative use of satin, tulle, embroidery and trimmings on evening gowns, ball gowns and wedding dresses. He was also known for his tailored suits, coats and woolen tweed garments. He drew inspiration from paintings such as the Italian Masters, Renoir, Tissot, Watteau and Fragonard. King George VI took him on a tour of Buckingham Palace to show him the Winterhalter portraits of Victorian ladies, giving him the inspiration for the crinoline dresses that would become the royal look for two Queens.
Sir Norman Hartnell died in June 1979 at the age of 78.
Marc Bohan designed for the house of Hartnell from 1989 to 1992 and the designer Yuki also briefly worked under him in the late 60's. Gina Fratini was the designer in the 90's and several leading other well-known designers have worked at the house of Hartnell, which still creates wedding dresses and evening gowns.
Queen's Wardrobe Exhibition
In July 2004, an exhibition opened at Kensington Palace of clothes from the Queen's Working Wardrobe. Nine of Norman Hartnell's creations are included in the exhibition, worn by the Queen from 1956 to 1972.
Sir Norman honoured
In May 2005, the English Heritage unveiled a Blue Plaque at 20 Bruton Street, London, where Sir Norman had worked from 1935 till his death in 1979.
White Wardrobe Exhibition
From July 30th till September 27th, an exhibition will be held at Buckingham Palace, the residence of Queen Elizabeth II, to display the "White Wardrobe" collection which Norman Hartnell made for Queen Elizabeth (Queen Mother) for her State Visit to France in 1938.
click below:
The Queen's clothes (made by Norman Hartnell) by Robb
Royal courts of fashion by Norman Hartnell
Norman Hartnell 1971 - 1979 by Norman Hartnell
2005
In Love (W)