website: www.gianfrancoferre.com
1944-2007
Sudden Death
The fashion world was stunned in June 2007 when beloved Gianfranco died in Milan after a massive cerebral haemmorrhage. He was comparatively young at 63, and will be sorely missed. His career is outlined below.
Harmony, geometry, finesse, free-flowing silhouettes, volume and fullness, classic yet modern, are some of the expressions used to describe the creations of Gianfranco Ferre. He has been called the "Frank Lloyd Wright of Italian fashion" comparing him to the great American architect.
In 1944, Gianfranco Ferre was born in Legnano, Italy. He shares a birthday with Napoleon Bonaparte, the great French General and Emperor. His mother was a widow of an engineer, and Ferre and his brother were brought up by her and his two aunts who were perfectionists who influenced him a great deal.
In 1967, he qualified as an architect in Milan, and supported himself by making belts while at college. After getting his degree his first job was in the design studio of a furniture company. He made some jewellery for a girl friend which was noticed by the owners of a boutique in Portofino, and he found himself designing jewellery for Walter Albini, a successful designer of garments made of silk and luxurious fabrics. Ferre also started working as a freelance designer, completing commissions for Lagerfeld and Fiorucci.
1970-73 Gianfranco spent in India, where he had been sent to study the crafts. The colours and craftsmanship made a great impression on him. He also spent much time traveling in India designing and advising the new fashion industry. The dazzling country with all its crafts, traditions and colour schemes, was a revelation to him.
In 1973, on his return to Italy, Ferre met Franco Mattioli, who had a faltering clothing house. Ferre agreed to do the design work for Mattioli and in 1974 brought out the first womens ready-to-wear collection for Mattioli's Baila label. In 1978, after 4 years designing for Mattoli, Ferre decided it was time for him to introduce his own label. He gave a 50% partnership to Franco Mattoli, which is still there. In 1978, he presented womens ready-to-wear, his Oaks line, and a line of garments, reflecting the free spirit of Sportswear. In 1982, he presented his first Menswear collection.
In 1983, Ferre became a professor of Fashion at the Domus Academy in Milan, Italy. In 1984, He was named Designer of the Year. The international trade Press awarded him the Womens Ready-to-wear award five times over the following years.
In 1986 Ferre introduced his first Couture collection. In this year, the President of Italy made him a Commander of the Italian Republic. In the same year, he launched Studio OOl, a new line and also his fur Collection Fourrures.
1989 - Gianfranco Ferre was appointed the Chief Designer for the well-established house of DIOR to replace Marc Bohan. He managed to capture the traditional Dior spirit and interpret it in a modern fresh manner, while retaining the elegance and attention to details that define haute couture. He continued creating clothes on his own label during this time.
1996 - Ferre left Dior after 7 productive years. In this year He introduced his own Jeans line.
Ferre has beeen awarded the Italian Fashion Oscar the "Occhio D'Oro six times, from 1984 to 1987.
In 1997, he opened a Jeans Boutique in Rome, And Boutique Gieffeffe in Milan. There was a "Ferre Week" in Tokyo and he held a Costume Exhibit of 18th and 19th century historic clothing in Turin. Ferre opened his Boutique in Geneva, and a new U.S. Showroom as well as Duty-free shops.
He continues to produce his couture collections, fur collections,
ready-to-wear for men and women, the Oaks and Jeans collections, Studio collection for Marzotto Europe's biggest textile giant, 11 over lines and 15 licences. Bergdorf Goodman in New York alone
sells more than $1 million per year of his clothes.
Ferre has a passion for travel, and visits several countries every year. He also enjoys relaxing at his lakeside house in Lake Maggiore not far from Milan.
Ferre Style
Gianfranco Ferre pictures the women who wear his clothes as
"in movement, dark-haired, scintillating and brilliant." He
likes his women to be dressed in feminine curved lines, asymmetric or subtly restrained silhouettes.
His garments are usually graphically created in strong shapes and bright colours. Highly sensitive to form and outline, Ferre shows collections that bear the hallmarks of one whose early training was in the careful study of detail, in analysis and in planning. His intellectual approach to design, produces powerful and controlled clothes which are often folded and layered to create his precise statements.
Ferre has become noted for his expert use of stark colours,
especially red, black, white and gold, and his extravagant use of luxurious fabrics such as fur, leather and taffeta. He is however still able to insert a little fun into his garments, like this dress made of cane in a basket weave, for Spring 2000.
One of the garments with which he is always connected, is the white blouse. He is renowned for the way he sculpts white cotton, silk, or his favourite organza into so many shapes. He has taken the white shirt and made it his own, elevating it far above a humble shirt. He uses beaded cuffs, lace ruffles, collars that soar like birds or that cut loose with billowing sleeves. He is the king of the white shirt.
Spring/Summer 2003
Gianfranco Ferre presented his Spring/Summer 2003 collection in Milan in September 2002 which was very well received. On the left is an outfit from that collection.
Oversized menswear was turned into womenswear, and a run of flouncy black tulle dresses were held up by mens braces. He finished his show with models in shorts, holding rubber tyres to cover their breasts. A picture is shown on the right.
Fall 2003
Ferre showed his Fall/Winter collection during Milan Fashion Week in March 2003. The outfit on the right is from the show.
His historical references included swaggering Napoleonic uniforms and delicate empire dresses of Empress Josephine. But inspired partly by 18th century French Revolutionary costumes and partly by motocycle gang-toughs, Jeanswear and studded leathers also appeared on the runway.
The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, held an exhibition called "Fashion - Italian Style" from February to April 2003.
Gianfranco Ferre donated an amazing draped ball gown to the exhibition. It was a pity that none of his famous signature white blouses were on display.
GFF Diffusion Line Spring/Summer 2004
Ferre may be several decades older than Gen Y, but he has his pulse on the young chic market. He showed this young line during New York fashion week in September 2003.
The show lasted 2 hours, and was shown in red, white and black groups. The red had a touch of biker chic, the white was sporty and beachwear, while the black could be worn at parties.
Spring/Summer 2004
Gianfranco's ready-to-wear line for this season, was shown during the Milan Fashion Week in October 2003. One outfit from the show is on the right.
Ferre's inspiration was the grahic works of Italian secessionist artist Vittorio Zecchin as well as an impression of South America. The link between the two was graphic patterns of circles, which Gianfranco treated in a multiplicity of laser-cuts on everything from organza to leather.
The lean gray or pale-blue silk pantsuits which opened the show were masterfully cut and his signature big-collared white shirt looked fabulous.
He takes a theme and systematically works into it, colour by colour, pattern by pattern, showing every ingenious angle on the subject.
Fall/Winter 2004 ready-to-wear
Gianfranco Ferre presented his Fall collection in Milan during Fashion Week in February 2004.
One of the outfits from the show, is pictured at the left. Ferre did not consider very cold weather next fall, because his creations were light and feathery with a lingerie look, made of chiffon and silk, with lots of petticoats and ribbons.
Spring/Summer 2005
During Milan Fashion Week in October 2004, Gianfranco Ferre presented his Spring collection. A superb animal print dress worn by Alek Wek, from the collection is shown on the right.
He made the hall into an Amazonian rain forest, with giant leaves projected onto the walls. Africa and the sense of jungle foliage and animals, is a recurring theme throughout the Spring/Summer 2005 collections, and Gianfranco made the most of it with his sculptured gowns in fantastic shapes, and draping.
Autumn/Winter 2005
Gianfranco Ferre presented his Autumn/Winter collection during Milan Fashion Week in February 2005.
An outfit from the collection is shown on the left.
It had a latin feel, masculine pin-striped suits had brown mink fur edging, mini bomber jackets were worn over long divided skirts.
Body hugging gored black sheepskin skirts also appeared. He showed lots of denim jeans but he added sparkles.
Multi-tiered skirts were worn with volumetric white and navy blouses. Lots of intricate embroidery was included.
A Night in Rome
On June 1st 2005, people in Rome enjoyed a wonderful spectacle. Italy's four leading fashion designers Armani, Valentino, Gianfranco Ferre, and Donatella Versace put on a show of their creations. One of the gowns made by Ferre is shown on the right.
Spring/Summer 2006
Milan Fashion Week
Gianfranco Ferre presented his Spring/Summer 2006 collection during Milan Fashion Week in September 2005.
On the left is a dress from the collection, a splendid brown chiffon creation over a silk under gown, with a very full skirt and hand-painted flowers.
His inspiration was the intense dazzling midday sun on colonial buildings and Mexican cathedrals. This translated into sportswear raised to luxury standards. There were lots of Ferre's signature white blouses in organza, cotton voile and chiffon georgette. He says that white is not only a colour, it is a declaration of vitality and purity. As his show moved along, he changed into bejeweled, richly coloured and intensely embellished clothes. It was a wonderful show.
click below:
Gianfranco Ferre: Itinerario by Giusi Ferre
Gianfranco Ferre (Made in Italy) by Gianfranco Ferre
2007
Gianfranco Ferre (W)