George Barbier
1882-1932
George Barbier was born in Nantes, France in 1882. He studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris from 1908 to 1910. His companions included his cousin Pierre Brissaud, Bernard Boutet de Monvel, Jean Besnard, Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape and Charles Martin, all of whom were to become world renowned fashion illustrators.
Barbier spent many years designing theatrical costumes and sets, but his career did not take off until 1912, when he was 30. In that year several important new Paris fashion magazines began to be published, Gazette du Bon Ton, Le Journal des Dames et des Modes, Feuillets d'Art, Femina and Vogue. He became the chief illustrator for many of these magazines.
Barbier's style seems to owe its outlines to Aubrey Beardsley and their colour to Leon Bakst. He was interested in both 18th century art and Art Nouveau and the strong influence of the latter can be seen in the curlicues and flowing shapes of his supple, fashionable women. Barbier also illustrated albums of ballet dancers and made wood engravings.
Barbier was one of many artists who illustrated limited "editions de luxe" intended as collectors items. A mania for these books swept France in the teens and twenties.
In 1913, he made an album of drawings of Nijinsky, the principal dancer of the Ballets Russes, in his various roles.
The fashion plates Barbier drew for Bon Ton were almost exclusively for the house of Worth. They were prepared 6 to 12 months ahead of the collections and make one of the most complete couture series of the period. They are now in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
The illustration on the right, is from 1923, when Barbier drew three ladies wearing the creations of Worth, Poiret and the Callot Sisters, being watched by an admirer.
In 1925, several people joined Barbier deploring the boyish style of the 20's clothes, critical of the bisexual appearance, athleticism, and flat-chested asexual approach.
Both Barbier and Erte were asked to design for American movies. Barbier sent his designs from Paris, where he was based. One of the films which used his costume designs was "Monsieur Beaucaire" starring Rudolph Valentino, in 1924. Barbier's designs were not so exotic as Erte's but certainly as lavish. He designed for many films up to 1930
The last show he worked on was "Paris Shakes" at the Casino de Paris with Josephine Baker.
He died in 1932 at the age of only 50.
click below:
French Fashions 'of Good Taste' 1920-1922 by George Barbier
Parisian Costume Plates in Full Color, 1912-1914, by George Barbier
Art Deco Costumes by George Barbier
The Illustrations of George Barbier in full colour by George Barbier
AW 2002