1917-1988
Jules-Francois Crahay was born in Liege, Belgium in 1917. He was the son of a couturier. He began his career early. At 13 years old, he was already working as an illustrator for his mother's couture house. He learned the art of dressmaking in his mother's shop in Liege and then in 1934 moved to Paris, where he worked in the house of Jane Regny.
During the 2nd World War, Crahay was captured and imprisoned for 4 years.
In 1952, he joined Nina Ricci in Paris, where he became chief designer. Crahay's 1959 collection for Ricci featured low plunging necklines, full flounced skirts and scarves tied around the head, anticipating the Gypsy look which became so popular at the end of the 60's. Throughout his 11 year career at Nina Ricci, he achieved a reputation as an accomplished evening wear designer.
In 1961, Crahay designed a dress based on the paintings of Spanish artist Goya. The dress is shown on the left. Mrs Jackie Kennedy, wife of the US President, wore this dress with a black bodice and Chinese yellow skirt. It had a hand-knotted fringe at the front and had a daringly low neckline at the back. She wore it for the State dinner for President Prado of Peru.
If you would like to read more about the house of Nina Ricci, please click on the link here: Nina Ricci
In 1963, Crahay moved to the house of Lanvin succeeding Antonio del Castillo. His first design was the wedding dress worn at the marriage of Maryll and Bernard Lanvin, the grand-nephew of Jeanne Lanvin, a former model and great beauty. She has worked closely with Crahay throughout his years at the house of Lanvin. He has designed garments in vivid colours and light weight materials, in the light feminine style for which Crahay is remembered. He characterized his own work by saying that he wanted to have fun making his dresses. He worked for the house of Lanvin for 21 years.
If you would like to read about the house of Lanvin, click through the link here : Lanvin
Jules-Francois Crahay retired in 1984 and died in Monte Carlo in 1988.
AW 2002